Faculty of Pharmacy – TIU – Erbil
There is nothing that influences the soul quite like the way fragrances influence our spirits, minds, memories, and days. They can stimulate, soothe, or reassure us, and have the power to send a message to our bodies. Their introductions are beautiful, and their endings are even more so. The science of smells, or aromatology, studies the effects of perfumes on the center of sensations in the mind, and how they affect our feelings, such as relaxation, happiness, and a sense of activity. It is also the examination of the relationship between emotions and smells and the effect of perfumes on human behavior.
Since ancient times, aromatic plants have been used for their curative effects and benefits on the mind. Archaeological evidence suggests that people have been using aromatics for cosmetics and medicines, as well as for religious purposes in Mesopotamia since 10,000 and 5,000 BC. The Herbal of Isin, a Mesopotamian book, was the first to document over 250 plants and includes recipes for perfumes and ointments. Avicenna (AD 980-1037) wrote several books on the therapeutic properties taken from different plants and invented the refrigerated coil, which was used for distillation and to produce 100% pure natural essential oils and aromatic waters. By the thirteenth century, Arabs had become famous throughout Europe for their perfumes. Moreover, Hippocrates understood the power of perfume on our well-being. The Egyptians used myrrh to fight anxiety, while the Greeks used saffron to soothe tension and stimulate sleep.
Aromatherapy, or the use of scented oils, is the practice of inhaling the scent of essential oils to improve overall health. Experts believe that aromatherapy activates odor receptors in the nose, which send messages through the nervous system to the brain. The oils activate certain areas of the brain that play a role in emotions and may also have an effect on the hypothalamus, which responds by releasing brain chemicals such as serotonin, the so-called happiness hormone. The harmonization of mind, body, and spirit to feel invigorated is essential in modern lifestyles, and aromatherapy offers just that. Recent scientific research confirms the benefits of aromatherapy on both psychological and physical levels.
It is generally agreed that odors can influence behavior, psychology, memory, feelings, stress levels, attention, problem-solving ability, ability to choose friends, hormonal system, and the subconscious ability to communicate with odor. Scientists believe that these oils have a hidden effect on the chemical and energy systems in the body. For this reason, aromatherapy is often used as a natural remedy to relieve anxiety and stress. Fragrance lovers want to understand how the psychological effects of smell are transmitted to the brain, as well as how positive behavioral effects can occur through smell.
Aromatherapy can be provided as a complementary treatment or, more controversially, as a form of alternative therapy. Complementary treatment can be provided in addition to the main treatment, but with alternative medicine provided instead of traditional treatment, traditional treatment is usually scientifically proven. The use of aromatherapy in complementary therapies employs essential oils as the major therapeutic agents to treat several diseases. Aromatherapists, who specialize in the practice and application of aromatherapy, use a mixture of essential therapeutic oils, which can be applied to the skin (topical use). Oils are also used for massage, inhalation, or immersion in water, to stimulate and elicit the desired response. Some essential oils such as tea tree have shown an antimicrobial effect, while nutmeg essential oil showed anticancer effect, but clinical evidence is lacking. Evidence for the effectiveness of aromatherapy in treating medical conditions is still weak, with a notable lack of studies employing suitable methods.
An essential oil is an aromatic plant extract obtained by steam distillation. An essential oil can contain up to 200 active ingredients. They are chemical molecules naturally occurring with many amazing properties. Since essential oils are soluble in adipose tissues of our bodies, their ability to penetrate the skin and the fat cells can be justified. The treatment with aromatic oils is a remarkable development in the medical sciences and pharmaceutical industries, especially perfumes, after using some techniques that qualified perfumes to become a suitable medicine, in several forms, including inhalation, vaporization, massage, and other forms of medicine.
The application of aromatherapy includes the following.
1. Aerial dissemination of environmental odor or air disinfection; Direct inhalation to clear the respiratory tract, relieve burden, expectoration as well as psychological effects.
2. Topical applications for general massage, baths, wrappings, and therapeutic skin care.
Substances Used in Aromatherapy
However, there are many substances used in aromatherapy, including:
1. Essential oils are fragrant oils extracted from plants, chiefly via steam distillation (e.g., grapefruit oil is an example). However, the term is sometimes used to describe essential oils extracted from plant materials by any other solvent extraction. The essential or volatile oils are extracted from the flowers, barks, stem, leaves, roots, fruits, and other parts of the plant by various methods.
2. Absolutes are aromatic oils extracted primarily from flowers or delicate plant tissues through supercritical fluid or solvent extraction (e.g., rose absolute). The term is also used to describe oils extracted from essential butters, and ointments impregnated with ethanol.
3. Carrier oils are usually the vegetable base fatty, triglycerides that dilute essential oils for use on the skin (e.g., sweet almond oil).
4. Water distillations or hydrosols (e.g., rose water).
There are many herbs that make herbal distillates and have culinary uses, medicinal uses, and skin care uses. Common herbal distillates are chamomile, rose, and lemon balm. As well as aqueous extracts of various botanical materials (e.g., chamomile infusion).
On the other hand, volatile herbs (fumigators), the substances found in plants with a high oil content, are dried, crushed, and heated to extract and inhale the aromatic oil vapors in the direct inhalation method.
The Theory of Aromatherapy
The theory of aromatherapy is the treatment or prevention of disease through the use of essential oils. Other prescribed uses include pain relief, reducing anxiety, boosting energy and short-term memory, relaxation, preventing hair loss, and reducing eczema and itching causes.
Two main mechanisms are available to explain these effects. The first is the effect of smell on the brain, especially the limbic system through the olfactory system. The other is the direct pharmacological effects of essential oils. Oils with a standardized content of ingredients are required to contain a specified amount of certain aromatic chemicals that typically occur in the oil. Chemicals can be added in their synthetic form to meet the standards set by the Food Chemical Code, which is established by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for the oil. For example, lemon essential oil must contain at least 75% aldehyde to meet the chemical Codex profile for that oil, but that aldehyde can come from the chemical refinery instead of the lemon. Food Chemicals Codex oils are food grade, which makes them appear natural when they are not necessarily so. In addition, undiluted essential oils suitable for aromatherapy are called therapeutic grade, but there are no established and agreed standards for this category.
Lavender is one of the most popular essential oil choices for promoting feelings of calm and relaxation. According to a 2017 medical review, several clinical trials indicate that lavender oil helps reduce anxiety before surgery and cosmetic procedures, as well as during an intensive care unit stay. Lemon oil was said to be spiritual and relieve stress. In a Japanese study, lemon essential oil in vapor form was found to reduce stress in rats. Research at Ohio State University shows that the scent of lemongrass oil can boost one’s mood and help with relaxation. Thyme and sage oils have been suggested to enhance short-term memory performance when used as a dietary supplement. Likewise, many other oils have a great influence on our mind, spirit, and body, such as Musk and Amber.
Musk
Not all components of perfumes are plants, herbs, and flowers. Rather, some animals produce the finest types of fragrance, and the best types of oriental perfumes are made from them. Among the meat and the firth, the most precious aromatic components of the most expensive Arabian perfumes emerge, such as musk and amber. Musk is a fragrant substance with a persistent odor, obtained from the caudal glands of the male musk deer. Musk antelopes are found in China, the mountains of Tibet, and India. Musk was mentioned in the Holy Qur’an and the hadith of the Messenger (may God bless him and grant him peace) and in the poems of poets.
Amber
Amber, like musk, is extracted from a surprising source to produce perfume or a pleasant smell, as it is a waxy substance found in the intestines of sperm whales. When it dries up after being thrown out by the waves, it becomes fragrant.
Muslim merchants used to bring their amber from the coasts of Yemen and Oman. The prophet (peace and blessings of God be upon him) said that he wants the Islamic nation to be a fragrant nation, with a pleasant scent, especially on those occasions when Muslims meet, to ensure that this meeting is a pleasant meeting for the soul of every individual. Moreover, perfume is the most prominent feature. It offers an atmosphere of turnout, comfort, and happiness.
Essential Oils in Aromatherapy
The list of essential oils may seem endless, as there are hundreds of them, but we will confine ourselves to reviewing the most popular essential oils and some of their benefits and methods of use.
1. Bergamot Oil
It is one of the most important essential oils. Its benefits are purifying the skin, reducing stress, and promoting digestion. It can be used for inhalation and foot massage to relieve tension, and for abdominal massage to improve digestion. A drop of it can also be added to a cup of tea to make Earl Grey tea.
2. Rosemary Oil
It contains many antioxidants and helps promote hair growth, reduce inflammation, and improve memory and mental performance. It can be used for inhalation to help improve mental performance and attention, mixed with coconut oil and castor oil and used as a warm oil bath for hair, as it works to improve the growth of hair follicles.
3. Mint oil
It helps enhance digestion, and some studies have even linked it to relieving the pain of irritable bowel syndrome, relieving headaches, stimulating blood circulation, and stimulating hair follicles to grow. It can be used in massage after diluting it on the stomach area to improve digestion and also used in massaging the forehead after diluting it to treat headaches. Inhaling it helps reduce the severity of colds, while a drop of it can be added to tea to relieve stomach upsets. Some drops of this oil can be added to hair shampoo as it helps improve and strengthen hair follicles. In addition, some mint oil drops can be sprayed around the house to get rid of ants.
4. Lemongrass oil
Its benefits include relieving headaches, improving immunity, relaxing muscles, and acting as a skin toner after diluting it with a carrier oil. Drinking lemongrass tea can relieve stress. It can be sprayed on clothes before going out to protect against insects or used after diluting with a carrier oil to prevent acne.
5. Clove oil
Its benefits include nerve sedation and pain relief, characterized by its anti-inflammatory properties. It can be added to water for a bath to relieve muscle pain. It is used to relieve tooth and gum pain by mixing it with olive oil and applying it to the area of pain, while avoiding swallowing it.
6. Lavender oil
Its benefits help to relax and relieve muscle tension. A few drops can be sprayed in the bedroom or sprinkled on the pillow to overcome insomnia and feel relaxed.
7. Chamomile or chamomile
Its benefits include relieving anxiety and stress, helping to treat insomnia, improving digestion, relieving skin disorders, and preventing cancer due to its antioxidant content. Drinking chamomile tea can help treat digestive disorders, help sleep peacefully, and prevent insomnia. Warm chamomile compresses can also be used to relieve eye puffiness. It is also used to relieve sunburn by diluting it with coconut oil and applying it to the skin.
Oils uses in the Perfume Sector
Oils are very popular for use as a fixative. Fixatives are used to equalize the vapor pressures and thus the volatilities of the raw materials in a perfume oil, as well as to increase tenacity. The following are some fixatives:
A. Plant origin fixatives.
1. The resins are myrrh, frankincense, estoraki, and opoponax, among others.
2. Roots and Woods of Iris, Vetiver Root, Sandalwood, Cedar, Cypress, Siamese Wood, Canada Tuya, and others.
3. Balm from Gurugram, Benjoy, Copaiba.
4. The most commonly used is citrus bergamot.
5. Sage leaf, patchouli.
6. Coumarin is a substance found in many plants. It has woody notes and tonka bean. (This is the most commonly used in perfumery).
B) Synthetic fixatives Stabilizers
There is a wide variety of synthetic fixatives. Glyceryl D-acetate, Ethyl Phthalate, Benzyl Benzoate, Amyl Benzoate, Musk Ketone, Musk Ambrate, Heliotropin, Synthetic Coumarin, Cinnamic Alcohol Esters, Cinnamic Acid Esters.
C) Stabilizers of animal origin
They are generally oily secretions produced by the sex glands of certain animals or, as in the case of amber, waste prepared by the sperm whale, which it empties into the sea. Other aromatics of the animals are castoreum, civet, and musk.
Conclusion
It is straightforward to use essential oils after knowing the recommended dosage and method of use, whether in aromatherapy or other personal interests. In case two types of essential oils are desired to be mixed, the numbered tube must be used with caution, and a specialist should be consulted before any mixing or blending. Essential oils can be added to bathing water, or used in massage after mixing with vegetable oil, or they can even be taken orally with sugar or honey. Essential oils are effective for opening airways, stimulating sleep, relieving joint pain, and treating acne, skin cracks, and dry skin. It is no wonder then that cosmetic companies are including essential oils in the ingredients of their products. In the end, essential oils are one of the gifts of nature, but we have to make sure that we use them in the right and appropriate way so that they do not lead us to the opposite results.
References:
• The History of Aromatherapy. 2023. AROMATHERAPY ASSOCIATES CANADA. https://aromatherapyassociatescanada.com/pages/the-history-of-aromatherapy
• History of Aromatherapy by Nicholas Mulryan. 2023. https://theno1painreliefclinic.co.uk/history-aromatherapy
• The Ancient Roots of Fragrant Medicine.
• Joie Power, 2017. A History of Aromatherapy.
• Sowndhararajan, Kandhasamy, and Songmun Kim. 2016. Influence of fragrances on human psychophysiological activity: With special reference to human electroencephalographic response. Scientia pharmaceutica 84.4 724-752.
• Herz, R.S. and Gottfried, J., 2011. Perfume. Neurobiology of Sensation and Reward.